I8b9. 



Certificate of !Purchase. 



■^tS-S^ €•€•& s-&f-:S- &S-S- tS-S- s-^S- &&S: S-S-S-- 5-S-S- &&^;S-:S-:£- &S-:S-: &^;& &«•-& &S-:5- ^S 
ili 

Oil 
Of 

t4/ 



Tjhis is to Certi'/y that 

a< of f has paid S -■ 



J{J for one copj/ of " Uhe J^ei'f System of Cutting Coats 
J{| l^ests, " with scaie, same to be for his own personal use, 
»<» is not transferable in any shape or manner. 



t Vo. 



\^^^ -S:'S^ -S'S'S-S '^^^'^^-i ^^^^'^^^ -3-^-9 ^%^'^i^ "S^-S^-S '^^^'^^^ ^^'i '^^'^'^^ 



»»» 

(»> 
(»» 

»«» 
(♦> 
»»» 

»»> 

*?» 
»»» 
'»» 

ana f^ 

'♦> 

?»> 
'♦» 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

... Copyright No. 

Shell.il.^'^ 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



THE KEIF METHOD 



OF 



Cutting Coats and Vests. 



A COMPLETE MANUAL FOR 
SELF INSTRUCTION. 



Illustrated by Nineteen Finely Engraved Plates, with 

Practical Information and Full Instructions for 

Drafting the various styles of Coats and Vests. 



PUBLISHED BY 



FREDERIC A. KEIF, 

OWOSSO, MICH. 



1899. 



2(>279 



Copyrighted 1898 by Fredkkic A. Keif. 



i )N0 COPIES ReCcJVcD. 



MAn2-1899 1^ 




^ of C»-^'"^" 



Printed by The Times Printinc; Co., Owosso, Mich. 



r, 



6 






-B^ 


~r 






-1-' 


m 






20 






)9 






18 




— ' 


jri 






19 






15 


— : 




u 






]3 






]S 






_.,., f 




li 


X 





Q|^HE overwhelming success which I have attained by the use of 

%i^ this system, has encouraged me to prepare this work. The 

public is over-loaded with systems, each claimed by their author as 

the only sure method; but can only be used with success by a few, 

and all having nearly the same fundamental principles. 

A cutter's success lies in his ability to produce finely cut and 

perfect fitting garments. It is therefore for his interest to obtain the 

very best system. 

1 am fully aware that a great many cutters are prejudiced against 

'H the use of the incline measure. Therefore I would here state and 

stand ready to prove that, if rightly used, it is the most simple, short, 

O and easily applied of any of the various measures used in this pro- 

^ p^ gressive age, for obtaining the correct blade size and strap length. 

^ g This measure, together with the shoulder height and arm meas- 

5 "xj ure, IS the foundation upon which this system is built. 

g 2 A concise perception of the contents of this volume will con- 

cn vince the reader of its value to the cutting fraternity, and its super- 

c# ... 

> lority m pomts of simplicity, completeness and reliability over any 

fn other similar work. 

The Author. 



CO 

o 5? 



INTt^OlSUeTIOIs]. 



'"'' Knowledge is the True Fo^indation of Success P 






O cut a coat that will be perfectly balanced, with the required 
Ij J amount of ease, and have every part in direct harmony with 
'^ each other, is an art which very few cutters have accomp- 
lished. It has therefore been my aim to produce such a system as 
will yield the above results. 

Systems alone in either drafting or measuring will not or can 
not make an artistic cutter of one who is lacking in the necessary 
artistic qualities. No system, no matter how alluring its title or 
voluminous its theories, will win its users esteem unless the reason 
for its methods of procedure are apparent or are susceptible of dem- 
onstration as true. The results obtained by the use of this system 
are an ample justitkation for placing it before the public. 

If the intelligent reader will study carefully the following pages 
and illustrations he cannot help coming to the conclusion that it is 
the most simple, accurate and scientific system ever placed before the 
public, and that every step taken is such as can be proven true and 
applicable to not only normal but all forms. 

I am so confident that it will meet with the approval of those 
whom it comes in contact, that I will willingly refund the price paid 
for the work to those who are not benefitted thereby. 

With these few words of introduction 1 now lay this volume 
hopefully before the cutting Fraternity, trusting thereby to relieve 
and enlighten the cares and labors of those who are floundering in 
the mire of confusion, doubt and uncertainty, and to benefit all my 
fellow craftsmen. 

The Author. 



"Practical t^emarl^; 



I*^oW to IV^ea^Ure. 



First remove coat, then mark with chalk the length of waist and 
full length of coat. Place tape measure on socket bone and measure 
to height of shoulders, as explained later on, then to length of waist 
and then to full length of coat Take the breast, waist and seat 
measures in the usual way, then ascertain length of sleeve by placing 
the square snug under arm and measuring down the desired length. 
Now take the incline and indentation measures by placing the S-4 
stick against the center of back between the shoulder blades, and the 
bottom against the most prominent part of seat. Be sure to have the 
stick extend ^ or 4 inches above the socket bone. Now with the 
square measure from the S-4 stick on the side closest the body to 
the socket bone, or desired height for bottom of collar stand, for the 
incline measure, and the same way at extreme hollow of waist for 
indentation measure. Place the end of tape on socket bone and 
measure the desired length of opening for vest and then on down to 
full length. If the coat is to be buttoned up close around the neck, 
note size of collar worn by the customer. 



rjoW to take f\vm ^ize or ©ircUmference of f\rm. 

Take the tape and place it around the arm just where you want 
the sleeve seam to come, or just so the tape will not drop oiT the top 
of arm, then around underneath the arm and up again to the starting 
point. I would advise the reader not to take this measure too loose, 
but pull the tape up quite tight so as to place all the super-abundance 
of cloth up close against the arm and body. As an inch mistake in 
taking this measure only makes % inch difference in the depth of 
scye, there is very small chance of ever having to alter the depth. 



l*^oW to ascertain f^ei^l^t or ^lope of (gjrjoUlder. 

Affix a spirit level on long arm of square. Now place the short 
arm of square on the lowest point of right shoulder, keeping the long 
arm up against the back. When you have ascertained that the square 
is on a level make a chalk mark on center of back even with the 
upper side of square, as per illustration. If the left shoulder is lower 
than the right, ascertain how much lower it is by placing the square 
on left shoulder in the above manner and marking in center of back; 
now place end of tape on socket bone and measure dovv^n to each 
of the chalk marks. 

h]oW to \i'=>e {\\e Incline IV^ea^Vire. 

Practical experience has demonstrated that three (3) inches is the 
proper length of the incline measure for a normal figure: that is for 
one who is neither stooped or erect, but is just normal or perpendicu- 
lar in his attitude. 

As 3 inches is the correct length for a normal tlgure, the length 
of strap, for a person whose incline is 3 inches, is placed at the inter- 
section of lines A, G and O. 

Taking 3 inches as our basis, we find that for every inch our 
measure exceeds 3 inches we must shorten our strap length i inch 
and for every inch he measures less than 3 inches we must lengthen 
it i inch. 

Illustration for ^tooped "pornt. 

Suppose we have a customer whose measure is 4 inches; now as 
this is one inch in excess of 3, we must go down for our strap length 
i inch below the intersection of lines A, G and O as in the diagram 
for Prince Albert. If he measures 3^ inches, go down i inch; if 4i 
inches, i^ inch; if 5 inches, then descend i inch, etc. 



Illustration for £rect "porm. 

Incline measure of 2h inches, this being h inch less than 3 inches 
we ascend above lines A, G and O h inch; if 2 inches, then i inch; 
1-2 inches, I inch, etc. 



By exercising proper care the reader will have few, if any, alter- 
ations at this point, and will be relieved of the care and uncertainty 
of taking the strap measure, which is most always too long or too 
short. It is apparent to all that for every inch your measure is incor- 
rect it only places the strap i inch out of the way, too long or too 
short as the case may be. 



"T^l^e IV^etl^od of \J5in^ tl^e Incline Fv^ea^Vire to obtain tl|e 
©orrect iBlade (§)ize. 

Place from I to J i inch for every inch of the Incline Measure. 

Example — Having before us an incline measure of ^ inches, we 
place from H to 1 li inches always, and from I to J i inch for each 
inch of the incline measure of 3 inches, or I to J is f inch. J to K is 
i entire breast and K to L is 1- 12. 

Again, having a 2 inch measure (erect form) I to J is 5 inch; if 
H inches, I to J is ^ inch; if 4h inches, it is H inches, etc. 



l*~]oW to \x^e {\ie f\vm Fv^ea^Ure. 

Having the size or circumference of arm, our next step is to find 
the diameter of this size. This we find by dividing the circumference 
by 3.1416 and adding to the amount thus obtained a sufficient amount 
for ease and seams. The diameter of an arm size of 15 inches is 4.77 
inches; adding to this t inch we have St inches. As this method of 
procedure is so complicated and consumes too much valuable time, 
I have prepared a scale in above manner of all the arm sizes from 11 
to 22. Same is enclosed with every book. 

l^oW to Vice tl^e (§)CQle. 

Having an arm size of \Sh inches, we place end of scale with the 
size 22 pointing downward, on point B and mark 1 opposite iSi of 
scale for point C, or breast line. 

A practical use of this measure by my method will convince 
anyone of its accuracy and simplicity, and also that the chance of 
making a mistake has been reduced to a minimum. 




'-^ yj w w **- 



MANNER OF TAKING INCLINE MEASURE. 



/ "*■ K. f~. ^>^^. 





MANNER OF TAKING INDENTATION MEASURE. 



10 



■^^'7 




MANNER OF TAKING SLOPE OF SHOULDERS. 



11 



VlOtSEL T5)t^/\fT. 



Commence by drawing lines A and E, and at right angles with 

this draw line A G. 

A to B is height of shoulder, A to D is the natural waist length, 

and to E is fash, length. 

B to C is diameter of arm measure by the scale. D to F is 1 
inch. Draw a line from F to A; this is the center seam and estab- 
lishes point H on the breast line. 

H to 1 is U inches always. I to J is i inch for each inch of the 
incline measure. J to K is i breast on Div. and K to L is iV 

While square is in this position halve the distance from L to J 
for point 19, or width of back. 

L to O is i. Square up lines O L and 19. 

H to M is i breast and M to N is 21 inches. P is U inches up 
from B. Square across from B and P. 

A to 17 is i plus h inch. l8 is t inch above 17. Shape neck 
from i inch above A to 17. 

Draw a line from 18 through Z; make the width of back from Z 
to } to style or say 2i inches. Mo 4 is i inch, 4 to 5 is I in. always. 

In this case our incline is ^ inches, therefore X, or strap length, 
is placed at intersection of line A G and O. 

Take width of the shoulder from 18 to i inch beyond Z and place 
this amount from X to Y on line P. X to 6 is 6. 

F to 11 is 2i inches or fancy. 11 to 12 is f inch always. 12 to 
15 is the same distance as J is from I on the breast line, in this case 
f inch. This method gives the correct waist suppression between the 
side, body and back for all forms. 

1 Mo 10 is i breast, or fancy. From 10 to 9 is suppressed i inch 
for every inch the waist is smaller than breast, in this case 1 inch. 

Now with tape measure the distance from F to 11. Place this 



12 



amount on 1^ and measure over to 10, skip over to 9 and measure io 
7 just i waist. 7 to 8 is 2 inches. Square down from 8, then sweep 
from i inch below 21 to 1 5 by shoulder point X. This obtains the 
proper length of front. 




13 

THREE-BUTTON CUTAWAY. 

THE MEASURES. 

Breast 37. Fashionable Waist Length 19. 

Waist M. Length of Coat 37. 

Seat 39. hicline 2i 

Height of Shoulder 4. Waist indentation U. 

Natural Waist Length 17. Circumference of Arm 151^. 



TO DRAFT. 

Draw lines A E and A G. 

A to B is height of shoulder, 4 inches. 

A to D is natural waist length, 17 inches, and to E is fashionable 
length of waist, 19 inches, and to 28 is full length of coat. 

B to P is U inches. 

Square out lines P, B, D, E and 28. 

D to F is i inch; draw line from F to A. 

B to C is diameter of arm measure on the cale size marked 19|. 
Square out line C. 

H to I is U inches always. 1 to J is i inch for every inch of the 
incline, or t inch. 

J to K is I and K to L is ,2. Halve the distance from L to J for 
point 19. L to O is i Square up lines 19, L and O. 

H to M is i breast; M to N is 2i inches; N to 26 is U inches for 
button stand. 

As the incline is less than 3 inches, it calls for an erect form, or 
one whose front length is longer and whose back length is shorter 
than for a normal form. I therefore go above the intersection of lines 
A G and O i inch for every inch the incline is less than 3 inches, or 



i inch. 



A to 17 is i breast + * inch. 17 to 18 is ^ inch. Draw a line 
from 18 to intersection of lines B and 19. Shape back of neck from 
i inch above A to 18. 

Z to 3 is 2i inches. Draw a line from Q to 40 and shape back 
from 3 to 11 just touching the line thus drawn at breast line, as per 
diagram. Shape from i inch beyond Z to 3. Suppress I inch be- 
tween \ and 4. 4 to 5 is I inch. 

Measure the back from 18 to line i inch beyond Z, and place 



14 




15 

this amount from X to Y on line P. Shape the shoulder by going f 
inch above a line drawn from Y to X, as per diagram. 

2^ is ,2 above breast line. Draw line from 2^ to Y, and shape 
scye from Y to 5 by going beyond this line I inch, striking at 25 and 
sinking below the breast line t inch. Make the front of scye as near 
a horse- shoe shape as possible. 

From 11 to 12 is f inch. 12 to 13 is the ^ame distance that J is 
from I, or ^ inch. 

Shape side-body from 5 to 21, separating from the back part i 
inch on the breast line. Do not spring out from l3to 21, but let it 
be nearly straight down. 

1 Mo 10 is T waist, or fancy. 10 to 9 is i inch for each inch the 
waist is smaller than the breast, or f inch. Now measure the distance 
from F to 11; place this amount on 13 and measure to 10: skip over 
to 9 and measure to 7, just i waist, or 17 inches. 7 to 8 is 2 inches. 
Square down from 8 to 15. 8 to 27 is U- inches. H to 20 is is i 
breast. Shape fore-part from 20 to 9 and sidebody from 20 to 10, as 
per illustration 

Measure the distance on back from. 3 to 29 and place this amount 
plus i inch from 5 to 21 on side-body. Curve side- body from 21 to 
41 and shape fore part from 14 to \S, as per diagram. 

Sweep from 21 to 1 5 by shoulder point X for length of front. 

6 is breast down from X. Square out line 6. Sweep from N 
to 43 by C. 43 to 44 is width of notch, U inches. 

Shape front of coat from 44 to 27 for 3-button cutaway and from 
26 to 45 as per dotted lines for one button. 



THE SKIRT. 

28 to 30 is the same distance as E is from 29. Draw straight 
line from 30 to 29. square down from 13 to 31, just i natural waist 
length from A to D, or Sh inches. 

31 to 32 is indentation measure, H inches. 32 to 33 is i inch 
for each inch the seat is larger than the breast, or i inch. 

Draw line from 21 through 33. Curve the skirt from 21 one-half 
inch beyond 33 to 48. 31 to 48 is i inch longer than from 29 to 30. 

Shape top of skirt hy adhering to bottom of fore-part, and grad- 
ually leave fore-part until at 15, one-half inch separates the skirt 
from fore-part. 50 to 34 is the same distance as from 21 to 48. 
Draw a line from 34 to 48 and shape front of skirt. 



16 

Fat Man with High Shoulders and Flat Seat, 
measures. 



Breast 44. 


Indentation U. 


Waist 44. 


Slope of Shoulder f. 


Seat 44. 


Natural Waist Length \7h 


Size of Arm 16^. 


Fashionable Waist Length 19, 


Incline 3. 


Length ^7. 



As the manner of drafting all frock coats is similar, I will only 
attempt to explain the waist suppression and spring of seat. 

F to 11 is 2i inches: 11 to 12 is I inch; 12 to 1^ is I inch, or 
the same distance as J is from I. IMo 10 is i waist. As the breast 
and waist are of the same size, there will be nothing suppressed be- 
tween 10 and 9, 

Measure the distance from F to 11; place this amount on 13 and 
measure to 7, i waist, or 22 inches. 7 to 8 is H inches on all sizes 
where the waist is equal or larger that the breast. 8 to 27 is H 
inches. 

Shape from 44 through 26 and 27 to 1 ? for three-button cutaway, 
and from 26 to 4S as per dotted lines for one button. Take out a V 
of ^ inch, or fancy at S\. 

In drafting the skirt we find the seat to be of the same size 
as breast, therefore nothing is added beyond 32. 




17 




18 

FULL DRESS COAT. 

This is drafted the same as for an ordinary cutaway, with the 
exceptions of the Lappel and Skirt. 

H to M is i breast M to N is 2\ inches. Having found point 7 
as previously explained, square down from 7. 7 to 8 is 2 inches. 
Square down from 8. 

Sweep from 21 to 15 by the shoulder point. Draw line from 14 
to 15 and where this strikes the line drawn down from 8 is the proper 
length of front. Shape from 14 to 26 and take out, if desirable, a 
small V at 5l. 

6 is (• below X. 43 is 1 inch below 6. Sweep from N to 43 by 
C. Shape gorge from X to 43, also shape front of coat from 43 
through N to 26. 



THE LAPPEL. 



Draw lines A B. A to B is the same distance as from 43 to 26, 
plus the distance on strap of skirt from 50 to S^- Hollow the lappel 
slightly from A to B. Make the distance from 3 to C H inches, and 
from A to E 2i inches. A to B is 2i inches. Shape as per diagram, 
and space the button-holes 4 inches apart, lowest one being H inches 
from the bottom. 



THE SKIRT. 



Draw a straight line from 21 to 31, placing one-half the 
natural waist length from 13. 

31 to 32 is indentation measure. 32 to 33 is i inch for each 
inch the seat is larger than the breast. Draw a line from 21 to 33 
and shape by curving beyond 33 one-half inch. 

21 to 48 is i inch longer than from 29 to ^0. Shape from 21 to 
50. 50 is 1 inch below 26. The step of skirt from 50 to 53 is U 
inches. 

53 to 52 is h distance from 50 to 21 plus ^ inch. 50 to M is the 
same distance as from 21 to 48. Draw lines from 34 to 48. 48 to 34 
is the same distance as from 53 to 52. Draw a straight line from 52 
to 34 and shape as per diagram, coming back from 34 to 35 about f 
inch. The width of bottom is subject to style. 




c' 'B 



20 

PRINCE ALBERT. 

Illustrating a man with a small waist, high shoulders and a stoop- 
ing form. 

MEASURES. 

Breast 36. Natural Waist Length 17 . 

Waist 31. Fashionable Waist Length l8f. 

Seat 38i. Length of Coat 40. 

Size of Arm 15 Incline 4. 

Slope of Shoulder ^. Indentation 1. 



Draft this the same as for any other frock coat in its principle 
points. 

B to C is diameter of arm, \S on scale. 

D to F is h inch; draw a straight line from F to A. This estab- 
lishes point H on breast line. H to I is li inches. I to J is i inch 
for each inch of the incline measure, or 1 inch. J to K is i. K to L 
is 12- L to O is i. 19 is half way between L and J. Square up from 
19, L and O. H to M is ^ breast. M to N is 2i inches. 

As our client measures 4 inches (1 inch more than 3 inches) we 
go below line A G on line O i inch. 

F to 11 is 2t inches. 11 to 12 is f inch. 12 to 13 is same distance 
as J is from 1, or one inch. 13 to 10 is i waist. 10 to 9 is i inch for 
each inch the waist is smaller than the breast, or li inches. Now 
measure the distance from F to 11, place this amount on 13 and 
measure over to 10. Skip over to 9 and measure to 7, just h waist or 
1 Clinches. Shape the front as per diagram, swelling out about i 
inch over breast line and receding about f inch from \S. 



THE LAPPEL. 

Draw lines A B. From A to B is the same distance as from 43 
■to IS. Square out from B to C 2i inches. Make the width over 
breast 21 inches and shape as per diagram, making the width of 
lappel according to the prevailing style. 



THE SKIRT. 

Draw straight line from iMo 31 one-half natural waist length or 



22 

8i inches. 31 to 32 is tiie indentation measure, or 1 inch. 32 to 33 
is T inch for each inch the seat is larger than the breast, or | incti. 

Draw a straight hne from 21 to 33 and shape by rounding i inch 
at 33. 21 to 48 is i inch more than from 29 to 30. 1^ to ^0 is i 
inch less than width of lappel. Square down from ^0 to 34 by the 
waist line. ^0 to 34 is the same distance as from 21 to 48. Draw 
line from 34 to 48 and shape by rounding the bottom # inch below 
this line. I would advise the reader to be sure to have the top of 
skirt at ^0 back to the button at waist, at right angles with the front 
line. Also at ?1 curve the skirt i inch below tiie front, thereby 
obviating Ihe risk of the skirt clinging to the knee in walking. 






"©loi^ram 6. 



SACK COATS. 

The sack coat is drafted in every way the same as for frock coat 
in its upper parts, namely: 

A to B is height of shoulder. A to D is natural waist length. 
A to 28 is full length of coat. B to P is U inches always. 

B to C is diameter of arm size, on scale. Square out lines P, B, 
C, D, and 28. 

D to F is ^ inch. Draw a straight line from F to A, and from F 
to 28, for center seam of coat, thereby establishing point H on the 
breast line. 

H to 1 is U inches always. 1 to J is i inch for each inch of the 
incline measure. J to K is i breast. K to L is 12. 19 is half way be- 
tween L and J. L to O is ^. Square up lines O, L, and 19. 

H to M is i breast. M to N is 2\ inches. M to Q is H inches. 

In this case the incline is 3i inches. As this is \ inch more than 
normal, of 3 inches, we go below the intersection of lines A, G, and 
O, i of an inch. This establishes point X, or the length of strap. A 
to 17 is ^ plus h inch. 17 to 18 is # inch. 

Draw a straight line from 18 to Z. Extend beyond Z ^ inch, and 
measure width of shoulder from this point to 18. Place the i^ame 
amount from X to Y on line P. To illustrate: Suppose the distance 
from 18 to t inch beyond Z is 7 inches, we now place the end of tape 
on X and measure down 7 inches to line P, or from X to Y is 7 
inches. Draw a straight line from X to Y and shape the top of 
shoulder by going ^ inch above this line as per illustration. 



23 

2S is /, above breast line. Draw a straight line from 2? to Y. 
19 to 3 is H inches, or fancy. 3 to 5 is f inch. Shape scye from Y 
to ?, sinking below breast line ^ inch. Also shape from Z to ^. 

F to 11 is i breast. 28 to 30 is the same distance. Shape the 
back from ^ through 11 to 30. 11 to 12 is f inch always. 12 to 13 
is the same distance as from 1 to J.' 

13 to 10 is i breast. 10 to 9 is i inch for every inch the waist 
is smaller than the breast. Measure the distance from F to 11, place 




24: 



this amount on \3 and measure to 10. Skip the distance from 10 ta 
9, and measure on to 7 just i the waist measure. 

7 to 8 is 2 inches. 8 to R is U inches. Square down from 8, R, 
and 1^. 13 to M is one-half the natural waist length or 8i inches. 
31 to 32 is the indentation measure. If the fore part is shaped from 
S, 13 and 34 it will produce a skin tight garment, therefore add be- 
yond 32 and 13 the amount required to produce the desired looseness. 
In ordinary cases add about f inch at above points. The distance 
between the back and forepart on breast line is i inch. From S to 48 
is the same distance as from 3 to 30. Sweep from 48 to 34 by X for 
the length of front. X to 6 is e breast. Square out from 6 and sweep 
from N to 42 by C. 

42 to 43 is H inches. Shape the front as per diagram for a 4 
button. 

The hip pocket is placed about it length of arm down from the 
breast line and the lowest button is placed on a line even with the 
top of lowest pocket. 






te)i®^r®m 7. 



DOUBLE BREASTED SACK. 

This is drafted in same manner as for an ordinary sack e-xcept 
the lap in front. 

H to M is i breast. M to N is 2i inches and N to Q is width of 
lap, from 2^ to 3 inches. 

Find 7 on waist line as heretofore explained; then place from 7 
to 8 two inches. 8 to R is the same distance as from N to Q. 
Square down from 8 and R. 

Draw a line from Q through R on to SO. 

Take one-half the distance from 48 to SO for 51, and shape front 
of coat from 44 to 51. 

1 would caution the reader to have the bottom from 51 to but- 
ton, at right angles with the waist line so as to avoid the possibility 
of having one point hang below the other. 

In spacing the buttons, measure the distance from the front of 
the button hole to the center line of breast, and place the same dis- 
tance thus obtained back from the center line. 



25 




SOLM 



26 



iSia^pam 8. 



Breast 48. 

Waist SO. 

Seat 49. 

Slope of shoulders 3i 

Length of coat M. 



FAT MAN'S SACK. 

MEASURES. 

Incline 2h 



Indentation 1. 
Arm size 17i. 
Natural waist length 17. 



Obtain all the principle points in same manner as for any other 
sack coat. 

The waist measure being 2 inches larger than the breast, 1 add 
from 10 to 9 i inch for every inch the waist exceeds the breast, or 
from 10 to 9 is i inch. 

Measure the width of back from F to 11. Place this amount on 
1^ and measure to 7, one-half the full waist measure, 2S inches, plus 
the distance from 10 to 9, or 2S^ inches. 

7 to 8 is H inches for all sizes where the waist is equal or ex- 
ceeds the breast measure. 8 to R is 1^ inches. Square down from R 
and shape the front. 

As we take out a cut under the arm, point S should recede 
toward 3 one-half inch, as per diagram. To prevent the coat hang- 
ing in folds just below the pit of stomach and to provide a pocket for 
a corpulent man's stomach, I use the following method: 

Trim the coat as drafted, then cut a straight line from 8 to the 
end of pocket at 1, then forward to 16; open from -8 to 9 as per 
dotted line and the surplus thus formed is folded at the bottom. 
This provides a bulge at 1 which serves as a pockel for the hip and 
the rest is pressed forward for the stomach. Reshape the bottom 
of coat. 



2T 




tSiQ^ram 9. 

SACK OVERCOAT. 

The Double Breasted Over-sack is drafted in the same manner 
as any other sack coat with the exception, of course, it being' larger. 
This means that the depths and breadths are made larger. If a light 
undercoat is worn draft by adding 2 sizes to the measures as taken 
for an undercoat, nothing is added to height or slope of shoulder 
from A to B. Thus a measure of 36 Breast, 32 Waist, 37 Seat, 
\S Arm size. 3 slope of shoulder, is drafted by a size of 38 Breast, 
34 Waist, 39 Seat and i inch is added to depth of scye at C but the 
Incline, indentation and slope of shoulder remains the same as before. 

The lap in front from N to Q should have an average width of 
3 inches and the button holes are marked I inch from the edge. The 
buttons are spaced in the same manner as for a D. B. Sack. To get 
the front at bottom of all overcoats, first, square down from R to 48 
then draw a line from Q through R on to 50, divide the distance 
from 48 to SO into 3 equal parts and draw the front from 44 to 51. 



^!$3«:9"^i&S-:S-.g-4-i 



"©ia^ram 10. 



SINGLE BREASTED OVERCOAT. 

This coat needs no explanation as it is drafted the same as 
diagram 9 with the exception that the lap in front for a fly need 
never be over 2 inches. The buttons are spaced about 1 inch back 
of center line and the flystitching line is marked about -j inch back 
of center line. 



29 




51 t8 3// 



30 




51 qs 3^ 



31 

te)i(a^ram 11. 

BOX OVERCOAT. 

A to B is the height of shoulder, to D is natural length of waist, 
to 29 is full length of coat. 

B to P is U inches. B to 9 is arm size on the scale. 9 to C is 
I inch. C to I is U inches. 1 to J is i inch for each inch of the 
incline. J to K is i breast. K to L is I,. L to O is h 19 is half 
way between J and L, square up lines O L and 19. C to M is i 
breast. M to N is 2i inches. 

D to 11 is i breast. 11 to 12 is f inch. 12 to ms the same 
distance as from J to 1. 

13 to 10 is 1 breast. 10 to 9 is i inch for each inch the waist is 
smaller than the breast. 

Measure the distance from D to 11, place this amount on 13 and 
measure to 10; skip over to 9 and place over to 7 plus one half waist. 
7 to 8 is 2 inches. 8 to R is 2h inches. Square down from R, 8 and 
13. 1 Mo 31 is i natural length of waist. 31 to 32 is indentation 
measure. 32 to 39 is U inches or any amount desired. 

3 is t inch up from breast line. 5 is f inches from 3. Draw a 
straight line from ? through 39 and shape the forepart seam so that 
when the coat is finished it will appear perfectly straight. 

Recede from D to 60 one half inch. Draw a line from A 

through 60 to 28. 

28 to ^0 and 60 to 11 is i breast or fancy. Shape the back from 

3 through 1 1 and 30. 

A to 17 is ^ plus h inch. 17 to l8 is # inch. Draw a line from 
18 to i inch beyond Z for width of shoulder. 

Measure the width of back and place this amount from X to Y 
on line P and finish as represented. 

Place the pockets about 12 inches below the breast line. If the 
back is to be of one piece cut oiT 1 seam from A to 28. Space the 
buttons same as for diagram 10. 



32 




33 



"©ia^ram 12. 



SLEEVE. 



First measure size of arm hole from Y around to 5 and up to Z. 
Then place ,V. of this measure below Z on back for back notch. 



TO DRAFT. 

Draw line Z to X. 

Z to O is u arm size. O to 19 is the same distance as from the 
back notch to the breast line at 19. C is f inch below 19. Square 
out lines 19, C and O. C to X is the length of sleeve. X to Y is f 
inch except for erect men, or those who hold iheir arms well back. 
In such a case let X be the center of sleeve. 




Draw a line from Y to 19. Now lay the forepart of coat on sleeve 
so that the breast line C of coat will be on line 19 of sleeve, as per 
dotted lines. 

The notch is placed I inch up from 19. Trace from notch up to 



34 



Z and B h the arm-hole measure, plus 2i inches, or the desired 
amount of fullness. * 

On line O the head of sleeve should be i inch from the forepart. 
Remove the forepart and place from the notch down to line 19 and 
up to Z, just i sleeve measure. If no V is taken out under arm of 
coat, add i inch to this measure. 

Square down from B to F, Make the size of cuff from Y to D 
any amount desired, say 6| inches. Sweep from Y to D by B. 

F is half way between B and D. Shape the sleeve by coming 
out beyond F to G about {- inch and hollowing in front the same 
amount. 




35 



te)i®^ram I3. 




COLLARS— Short Roll. 

Commence by drawing the 
break line from M through X to 
B. B to D is i inch. B to E is 
U inches. E to F is heigiit of 
stand, 1 inch. Now shape crease 
line from E to H. G to M is H 
inches. Shape from M to D by 
making it slightly convex, as per 
diagram. 



tSia^ram 14-. 



COLLARS. 

EXTREMELY LONG ROLL 

FOR DRESS COATS, 

ETC. 

Draw lines H X and E. 
E to D is If inches. E to F 
is height of stand, 1 inch. 
Shape as per diagram. 




36 

"©ia^ram 15. ^ 

NOTCH COLLAR VEST. 

A to B is the height of the shoulder. A to D is the length of 
waist. B to P is U inches. B to C is diameter of arm measure on 
scale. Square out lines B, P, C and D. 

C to I is li inches always. 1 to J is i inch for every inch of the 
incline measure. J to K is i breast. K to L is i!>. 19 is half way 
beween L and J. L to O is ^ plus h inch. Square up lines \^^ 
L and O. 

C to S is 1 breast plus H inches. Square down from S. C to M 
is i breast. M to N is 2] inches. 

D to E is i indentation measure. In this case I inch. E to 2^ 
is 1 waist plus 1 inch always. 

Square down from M to R. R to 26 is ? waist plus 1 inch- 
Measure the distance 26 goes beyond 23 and place half this amount 
in front from R to Z. Example— If 26 extends beyond 23 one half 
inch place one half this amount or i inch from R to Z. Z to 8 is 
2[ inches. 8 back to 20 is i waist plus 1 inch. 

A to 17 is ^ breast plus h inch. 17 up to 18 is ;' inch. Draw a 
straight line from l8 to Z. Having ascertained the length of strap at 
X in the same manner as for a coat place the same distance from X to 
Y as 18 is from Z and shape top of shoulder as per diagram by going 
s inch above a straight line drawn from X to Y. 

20 is f inch below S. 21 is the same distance below S as E is 
from D on the waist line or i inch. Shape the arm scye from H to 20. 

Measure the distance from 18 to 29 and place this amount from 
X back to ^0 for width of strap and shape front of arm scye to 21. 

A to 17 and X to 2^ is length of opening plus I inch. A to 17 
and X to G is the full length of vest plus 1 inch. Shape as per 
diagram. 

Draft the collar as shown, making the width of stand from 3^ to 
40 one inch. 



37 




38 



iSia^ram 16. 



FAT MAN'S NO COLLAR VEST. 
Draft in the same way as for the preceding draft. 



21 is i inch below 20. 



S to E is i indentation measure. 

E to 23 is i waist plus 1 inch. 

R to 26 is i waist plus 1 inch. 

Measure the distance, 26 is beyond 23, and place i this amount 
from R to Z. Z to 8 is 2i inches. 8 to 20 is \ waist plus 1 inch. 
X to 29 is I inch. 35 to 40 is 1 inch. Shape opening according to 
taste. 

Take out a cut from 4 to 8 of ^ or f inch to front of pocket, add- 
ing the same amount on bottom of vest, as per dotted lines. 

This will produce a pocket in front over the abdomen, and will 
also make the bottom edge of vest a Lttle tighter. 

35 ^^0 




39 

ti)t©^r'©Tn 17. 

DOUBLE BREASTED VEST. 

All vests are drafted in the same manner. Therefore 1 will here 
only explain how to use the indentation and the waist measure. 

Indentation 2 inches. 

D to E is i of indentation measure or i inch. 

21 is i inch below 20. 

E to 23 is T waist plus 1 inch. 

R to 26 is i waist plus 1 inch. 

26 extending beyond 23 one-half inch place one-half this amount 
or i inch at front from R to Z. Z to 8 is 2i inches. 

If 26 does not extend to 23 add from R to 8, 2i inches, and 
place from 8 back to 20 i waist plus 1 inch. 

4 is half way between X and O. Square out from Z and sweep 
from N to 37 by C. 

Shape vest from 37 to one-half inch back of G. 



THE LAPPEL. 

Draw lines AC. A to C is the same distance as from 37 to G. 

Make the distance from F to E 3i inches, and C to D If inches. 
A to B is 2t inches. Shape the front of lappel and space the button 
holes 2i inches apart. The lowest one being if inches from the bot- 
tom. 

Caution: — Never have the distance from R to 8 less than 2i 
inches. 



HOW TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. 

Draw the crease line 3?. 

The stand from 3^ to 40 is 1 inch. 3^ to 36 is U inches. 37 to 
38 is the same. 



40 




C <-;• 



i^ii^S^ii-.^.S^eiri 



CHANGES FROM THE PRECEDING DIAGRAMS. 

We will sometimes meet with a customer who is so erect as to 
have no incline measure. In such a case do not add anything^ from I 
to J but place I breast from I to K. The strap length, or point X, is 
placed I inch above line A, G, and O. 

I never make a V or dart in any part of the coat unless absolute- 
ly necessary; therefore if the reader desires to take out a V under the 
arm in a sack coat, he must recede point ^ toward 3 one-half an inch 
as per fat man's diagram. 

In making up the coat have the journeyman stretch the shoulder 
in front of the scye about I! or i inch. 



MAR S 1899 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 082 849 A 



